The routes

49
Routes in archive
Angels and Demons
Climbing routes
Angels and Demons - Caporal
8a+
An absolute masterpiece on Caporal, initiated in 2005 by Ezio Marlier and Massimo Farina and then abandoned after Farina's untimely death. Acting on Marlier's invitation, Federica Mingolla and Leo Ghezza completed the route in 2020 and Mingolla made the...
Arête Cosmiques
Climbing routes
Arête Cosmiques - Aiguille du Midi, Arete des Cosmiques
8a
Arête Cosmiques, offers a completely different style of climbing and was established in 2013 by Nicolas Portard and Victor Estrangin. As the name suggests, this climbing the righthand arête past some interesting and powerful sequences. Once again, the route is...
Astro Zap
Climbing routes
Astro Zap - Le Trident du Tacul
7a max
On 4/09/2013 Giovani Bassanini and Lamberto Camurri made the first ascent of Astro Zap (7a), a line that climbs the crack avoided by the Via Diretta Bonatti, first climbed by Walter Bonatti and Cosimo Zappelli in 1963 up Le Trident...
Bettembourg - Thivierge
Climbing routes
Bettembourg - Thivierge - Pic Adolphe Rey
TD+, 6b max
Splendid route up fantastic red granite. Perhaps the best route of its kind on the satellite.
Calcul du Roi
Climbing routes
Calcul du Roi - Roi du Siam Petit Capucin
6c or 6a+/A0
Established ground-up over a period of two days, Calcul du Roi is a beautiful 300m route that for almost its entirety follows a system of cracks on granite that is nothing short of spectacular.
Cascata delle miniere
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Cascata delle miniere
V/3+ - 4/R
A route which rarely comes into condition. The ice is thin in places and this renders the climb demanding despite the fact that there are few vertical sections. The route faces south, takes a line up massive rock gradients and...
Cassin Route - Walker Spur
Climbing routes
Cassin Route - Walker Spur - Grandes Jorasses
6°/A0
'The rock face of all rock faces', 'the route of all routes': the Cassin route up the Walker Spur on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses represents a dream for all alpinists. The route is highly demanding and due...
Cicci
Climbing routes
Cicci - Val Ferret
7a+?
The route climbs the peak (marked 3022mon the Frébouge glacier in Val Ferret. Superb rock, fully equipped with 10mm stainless steel bolts, plus twin bolts connected with slings and maillon rapide for the abseils.
Contamine
Climbing routes
Contamine - Pointe Lachenal
TD+, 6a+ max.
Great cassic trad route, long, always interesting and well-protected. The face receives the sun and is fairly sheltered from the wind. Climbing is therefore possible from mid-spring onwards, and is best combined with a magnificent ski to Chamonix down the...
Così parlò Zarathustra (Una via per tutti e nessuno)
Climbing routes
Così parlò Zarathustra (Una via per tutti e nessuno) - Trono di Osiride
7c
Così parlò Zarathustra is a beautiful rock climb that ascends the obvious corner up Trono di Osiride, first ascended with the use of aid in 183 by Daniele Caneparo and Isidoro Meneghin. Ignored for many years, the route was climbed...
Dent du Géant
Climbing routes
Dent du Géant - Dent du Géant
AD (III)
The normal route up the Dent du Géant is partially equipped with large ropes to aid the ascent and over the years it has become one of the great classics in the Mont Blanc range. Often crowded, never technically difficult...
Digital Crack
Climbing routes
Digital Crack - Aiguille du Midi, Arete des Cosmiques
8a
Digital Crack is a unique climb in a unique setting, located on the huge granite gendarme above the famous Arête des Cosmiques. The monolith, with its typical Mont Blanc orange granite, currently hosts two bolted alpine sport climbs. The first and...
Duel
Climbing routes
Duel - Altrolato
7a+
Established with the use of aid Adriano Trombetta and Aziz with difficulties up to A2, Duel was subsequently freed on 5 october 2011 by the first ascentionists. As the name suggests, beautiful twin cracks offer physical, continuous and elegant climbing.
Eau et gaz à toutes les étages
Climbing routes
Eau et gaz à toutes les étages - Grand Capucin
ED+, 7c max.
A spectacular, demanding and, as the name suggests, extremely airy route. Not to be underestimated at any costs: retreat is a difficult proposition, and almost impossible above the great roof. Psychologically more demanding than Voyage or Elixir, but highly rewarding....
Elixier d’Astaroth
Climbing routes
Elixier d’Astaroth - Grand Capucin
ED+, 7a+ max, A2
This is the most direct line up the vertical wall, the exposure is total and the climbing, apart from a small section half-way up the aid pitch, is always pumpy and sustained. Not all belays have in-situ gear, but the...
Empire State Building
Climbing routes
Empire State Building - Clocher du Tacul
ED+, 7c max
An outstanding and spectacular route, more technical than at first appearance. The final pitches up the spur are truly genial! The crack pitch is not easy for those not used to crack climbing will find the crack pitch extremely difficult,...


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